Classic Italian Fried Smelts (Frittura di Sperlani)

This is a true cornerstone of Italian seafood cooking, especially beloved during the Christmas Eve "Feast of the Seven Fishes."

Unlike calamari, which benefits from tenderizing buttermilk, smelts are best treated with absolute simplicity to highlight their delicate, slightly sweet flavor. The preparation is rustic and quick. The smelts are coated lightly in seasoned flour (often mixed with semolina for extra crunch) and shallow-fried in olive oil until golden.

They are meant to be eaten whole—bones, tail, and all—like a savory, briny French fry.

Yields: 4 Appetizer Servings | Prep time: 10 mins | Cook time: 10 mins

Ingredients:

• 1 lb fresh smelts, cleaned (heads removed and gutted—ask your fishmonger to do this)
• ¾ cup all-purpose flour
• ¼ cup semolina flour (optional, but adds a wonderful rustic crunch)
• 1 tsp fine sea salt, plus more for finishing
• 1 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
• Olive oil for shallow frying (do not use expensive extra virgin; regular olive oil or a blend of olive and sunflower oil works best)
• For Serving: Plenty of fresh lemon wedges and chopped flat-leaf parsley

Method:

1. Dry the Smelts (Crucial Step): Rinse the smelts gently under cold water. Lay them out on a triple layer of paper towels and pat them very thoroughly dry with more paper towels. Wet fish means a soggy coating and dangerous oil spattering.

2. Prepare the Dredge: In a shallow, wide bowl or pie plate, whisk together the all-purpose flour, semolina flour (if using), 1 tsp salt, and pepper.

3. Heat the Oil: In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet (cast iron is excellent here), pour in enough olive oil to coat the bottom by about ¼ inch. Heat over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmering but not smoking. Test the heat by dropping a pinch of flour in—if it sizzles immediately, you are ready.

4. Dredge and Fry:

• Working in batches so you don't crowd the pan: Toss a handful of smelts into the flour mixture to coat.
• Shake them vigorously in a mesh strainer or between your hands to knock off almost all the excess flour. You want a dusting, not a heavy batter.
• Carefully lay the smelts into the hot oil in a single layer.
• Fry fast: They only need about 2 to 3 minutes total. Fry on one side until golden, flip gently with tongs, and finish the other side.

5. Drain and Season: Transfer the fried smelts to a wire rack set over a baking sheet (paper towels will make them steamy). Immediately sprinkle generously with more sea salt while they are hot and oily.

To Serve: Pile the hot smelts onto a serving platter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and surround them with lemon wedges. Squeeze fresh lemon juice over them right before eating.

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Chef's Companion: Quick Lemon Aioli

While Italians traditionally eat these just with a squeeze of lemon, a simple dipping sauce is a nice addition for a party spread.

• ½ cup good quality mayonnaise (I used our Yuzu Mayo from the Taste of Asia box and it gave it a perfect kick!)
• 1 clove garlic, grated into a paste (use a microplane)
• Zest of ½ a lemon
• 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice 
• Pinch of salt

Whisk all ingredients together in a small bowl. Chill until ready to serve.